Ever wonder what it takes to upcycle a piece of furniture? In order to get a finish that will last, there are some important steps to always follow (even if the paint manufacturer claims no prep or primer is needed).⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀
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Below is the basic routine I perform with each piece I work on:⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀
⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ Cleaning – I thoroughly clean every inch starting with a good vacuum and ending with a cleaning solution to remove any dirt and grime.⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀
⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ Repairs – This covers things like replacing drawer slides, filling knicks or missing chunks, gluing drawers, and adding support so everything is stable. In extreme cases, I may need to recreate full missing parts.⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀
⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ Sanding – Depending on the condition, I will lightly sand or do a more in-depth sanding on rougher areas.⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀
⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ Deglossing – The process of using a chemical to remove any access oils and finishes remaining on the piece. This is the last step to enable proper adhesion of the primer/paint.⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀
⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ Staining – If the wood is in good condition, I try to keep part of it in the final design. 2-3 coats of stain are applied with overnight dry times between each.⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀
⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ Priming – 2 coats of high hiding primer is applied to all places paint will be applied. Any stained areas are taped off before this step.⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀
⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ Painting – After the primer cures for at least 2 hours, paint is applied with a sprayer and/or brush. 2-3 coats of paint are typical (light sanding and curing between each coat).⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀
⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ Specialty Techniques – This is the fun part that gives the final touch to your piece. Glazing, metallic paints, and stenciling fall into this category.⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀
⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ Top Coat – This clear coat provides overall protection to the final piece. Top coats are available in all finishes (gloss, satin, matte).⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀
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So, did you realize there were so many steps in completing an upcycled piece of furniture?
